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Ilfracombe

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Town and District of Ilfracombe

Geography
Area
- Total
- % Water
Ranked
? km²
? %
Admin HQ Ilfracombe
Traditional county Devon
Ceremonial county Devon
OS grid reference SS6593
Ethnicity ?% White
?% S. Asian
?% Afro-Caribbean
?% Chinese
Politics
File:Ilfracombe coatofarms.jpg

Ilfracombe Town Council
http://www.ilfracombetown.net/
Control Template:Devon County Council
MPs

Ilfracombe is a seaside resort on the north coast of Devon, England with a small harbour, surrounded by cliffs. The town stretches along the coast from 'The Coastguard Cottages' in Hele Bay toward the East and 6km along The Torrs to Lee Bay toward the West. The resort is hilly and the highest point within the town boundary is at 'Hore Down Cross', 3km inland and 270m (860 ft) above sea level. A seasonal foot passenger ferry service runs from the harbour to Lundy Island and The Balmoral, The Waverley and pleasure boats ply to Porthcawl near Swansea.

The natural landmark of Hillsborough Hill dominates the harbour and is the site of an Iron Age Celtic fortress. The award-winning Landmark Theatre [2] , is either loved or hated for its unusual double-conical design; it is distinctive and, with the St Nicholas's chapel on Lantern Hill, an internationally recognised feature in the town.

File:Ilfracombe.longview.arp.750pix.jpg
Ilfracombe seen from Hillsborough (447 feet, 136 metres), a viewpoint on the South West Coast Path. The Lundy ferry is moored at the lower centre of the picture, with Lundy island just visible on the horizon (in the larger picture)

History

Main article: History of Ilfracombe
The Landmark theatre (Emmanuel Church is visible on the left, the Parish church in the background)
File:Ilfracombe morning.jpg
A beautiful morning at Ilfracombe Harbour. St Nicolas's Chapel is visible in the background.

Ilfracombe has been settled since the Iron Age, when the Dumnonii Celts established a hill fort on the dominant hill, Hillsborough (formerly Hele's barrow). The town's name is a derivative of the Anglo-Saxon Alfreinscoma - by which name it was noted in the Exon or Exeter Domesday Book of 1086. The translation of this name (from Walter William Skeat of the department of Anglo Saxon at Cambridge University) means the "Valley of the sons of Alfred". The manor house at Chambercombe in east Ilfracombe, was recorded in the 1086 Domesday Book as being built by a Norman knight Champernon (from Chambernon in France) who landed with William of Normandy. It is also said to be haunted.

Ilfracombe was two distinct communities; a farming community around the parish church called Holy Trinity, parts of which date from the 12th century, and a fishing community around the natural harbour formed between Capstone, Compass and Lantern Torrs. It is recorded the lands by the church were part of the estate owned by Champernowne family those by the harbour to the Bouchiers, Earls of Bath.

Ilfracombe was a significant port on the Bristol Channel. In 1208 it was first listed as having provided King John with ships and men to invade Ireland; in 1247 it supplied a ship to the fleet that was sent to conquer the Western Isles of Scotland; ships were sent to support the siege of Calais, and it was the disembarkation point for two large forces sent to subdue the Irish. The building which sits on Lantern Hill by the harbour, known as St Nicholas's Chapel (built 1361) is reputed to be the oldest working lighthouse in the UK; a light/beacon has been there for over 650 years.[1]

In 1911, the Irish nationalist Anna Catherine Parnell (sister of Charles Stewart Parnell) drowned at Ilfracombe.

The song Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, it is claimed, was written by Jane Taylor whilst staying in the town in very early 19th century at Clyffe House.[citation needed]

The actor Peter Sellers first set foot on stage here, and the Collins sisters (Joan and Jackie) went to school in the town whilst evacuees from The Blitz.

Economy

Until the mid 19th century the economy was based around sea trade and fishing. The town is now a tourist resort served by ferries along the Bristol Channel. The population grew until the First World War, then stabilised at 9200, now 11000. The economy suffered throughout the 1960s as UK holiday patterns changed, and suffered further through the closure of the railway line in 1970.

In the last twenty-five years, major investment by private 'light engineering' companies has added to the economy. These companies include: Pall Europe - a manufacturer of specialist filters for industry; the Tesco superstore; and Coutant Lambda - a manufacturer of power supplies, owned by the TDK Corporation and a former subsidiary of Invensys. A large Co-Operative supermarket store sited on the sea front is planned for completion in autumn 2006.

Geology

Main article: Geology of Devon

Ilfracombe overlies slates formed from sedimentary rock that underwent geological stress (creating faults and folds), towards the end of the Carboniferous era, around 300 million years ago. These are known as the Ilfracombe slates.

Government

Seagulls plague Ilfracombe

The town lies within the Parliamentary ward of North Devon, and the European Region of South West England.

The three councils which govern day to day local activities in the town are Devon County Council (statutory), North Devon District Council (statutory), and Ilfracombe Town Council (parish). The councils cover different areas of responsibility:

  • Roads, education, economic affairs, youth services and Social Services are covered by Devon CC based in County Hall, Exeter to which Ilfracombe sends one elected member.
  • Housing, refuse collection, street cleaning, parks & gardens, harbour, leisure & culture, licensing and planning are covered by North Devon DC, Barnstaple to which Ilfracombe elects five members (two each from West and Central wards and one from East Ward)
File:Ilfracombe morning.jpg
  • The Town Council, which has 18 members (6 from each ward) acts as the watchdog to the other two councils whilst also developing local initiatives such as redeveloping old buildings and supporting many community associations and activities.

North Devon District Council offices are located in the town council's offices in Ilfracombe High Street. Northern area group District Councillors meet several times a year in The Lantern Community Centre to discuss current proposals for redevelopment and grievances of the local population toward these.

As with most communities with high density housing the largest voiced issue is car parking and the lack of suitable spaces. The worldwide problem of inconsiderate dog owners is another urban concern, for which the council has to mount frequent advertising campaigns to remind them to do their duty. A third issue - common to other seaside towns - is the growth in the seagull population, to some, one of Ilfracombe's most annoying pests. The town council is to erect more signs warning visitors not to feed them.

Demographics and sociology

When the tourism market faltered at the end of the Victorian era local hoteliers invited people living in major urban areas to the town with the prospect of seasonal employment. Later, as unemployment levels rose, this 'inward migration' caused social problems and friction between these people and those with a long history of residence. In 2001, Ilfracombe Central Ward was designated the most deprived super output area in the county of Devon.[citation needed]

These problems are now being addressed by the implementation of local government schemes e.g Sure Start Ilfracombe, Berrynarbor and Combe Martin - a project to help the families with young children - and, since 2004, the Neighbourhood Management Transform programme: both were the first such government sponsored social development schemes covering rural areas in England. Better policing, the use of neighbourhood wardens and CCTV have led to a reduction in crime rates as reported monthly to the Town Council by the police toward the North Devon regional average (a fraction of those nationally). [citation needed]

Institutions

Religious

There are many churches in the town serving various denominations of the Christian Faith. The main Anglican Church is the parish church 'Holy Trinity' which is the mother church to St Peter's on Highfield Road. Several other churches identify themselves as Evangelical but differ in denominational background, these include: St Philip and St James Church (known locally as 'Pip & Jims') whose background is Anglican; two Free churches - Brookdale Evangelical Church [3] and Ilfracombe Christian Fellowship Church [4], of which the latter is the more charismatic; and Ilfracombe Baptist Church of the Baptist tradition. There is also a Roman Catholic church (in Runnacleave Road), the Methodist/United Reformed Emmanuel Church [5] (on Wilder Road) and a Salvation Army lodge (on Torrs Park, by Bath Place).

Other faiths are represented by a Spiritualist Church (in Greenclose Road), and a Jehovah's Witness meeting place (in Belvedere Road).

Nearly 15% of the population registered as Pagan in the 2001 UK Census. [citation needed]

Educational

The town's educational needs are served by three schools: the Infants, the Junior and the comprehensive school - Ilfracombe College. Each of these schools is amongst the largest of their type in the County of Devon. The college serves the needs of Ilfracombe residents and those across the coastal North Devon area as far as Lynton and Lynmouth on the Somerset county border. It is a nationally recognised centre for Media Studies and was in 2004 awarded Media Arts Status. Further education courses and vocational courses are run by Ilfracombe College, IT skills are taught at Pathfinder centres sited within the Candar development. During the summer months, the town has an influx of foreign students who study English at the Channel School of English [6].

Libraries and museums

File:Ilfracombe library.jpg
Ilfracombe Library

Ilfracombe Museum was opened in 1932 in Ilfracombe Hotel's Victorian laundry and contains attractions from around the world including pickled bats and the two-headed kitten.[2] It also contains many other items and photographs of local railway interest including one of the concrete name boards from the now closed Ilfracombe railway station, which can be seen on the front wall of the Museum.

Ilfracombe also has a library located on the residential candar retirement development. [7]

Infrastructure

Road

Ilfracombe is at the southern end of the A361, the longest 3 digit 'A road' in England. It finishes on the A5 at Kilsby on the Northamptonshire-Warwickshire border near Rugby. This road is the town's main connection with the South West England motorway the M5.

Regular bus services to Barnstaple were originally provided by a local company - Red Bus, however, during the late 1990s FirstGroup plc acquired the company.

There are two main services; the 'no. 3', approximately every 20 minutes from Ilfracombe to Barnstaple via Braunton; and the number 30, every hour from Combe Martin, via Ilfracombe, North Devon Hospital and Barnstaple railway station respectively. There are several smaller routes around the town run by Roy Filer coaches.

There is a twice daily national coach service operated by National Express route 502 which connects Ilfracombe direct to London Victoria via Heathrow airport.

A seasonal route 'no. 300' operated by Quantock Coaches, connects Ilfracombe via Lynton to Minehead and Taunton in Somerset.

Rail

Ilfracombe was once served by a railway that ran from Barnstaple but this closed in 1970. Now, the nearest National Rail railway station is in Barnstaple and buses provide the public transport link from there to Ilfracombe.

Ilfracombe High Street

Retail

Despite the development of several supermarket stores by Tesco and the Co-operative Retail Society, the High St still thrives. The usual national chains like Lloyds Chemist, Somerfield Stores and Superdrug are present, but Ilfracombe has fortunately retained many local businesses, maintaining its traditional Victorian character. These businesses, such as Pedlers (a tailor) and Venners (a bakery), have been passed down through generations; whilst others, such as Turtons Butcher and Delicatessen, and the Chocolate Museum, are developing well-deserved regional reputations.

Development

Since 2001 there has been a locally led economic regeneration programme led by the Ilfracombe & District Community Alliance MCTI, a community interest company designed to encourage social entrepreneurship. After widespread community consultation this programme developed a community economic strategy for the next twenty years.

The Harbour

The South West Regional Development Agency is working with the Alliance and North Devon District Council formulating detailed plans for the town's economic and physical structures. Proposed key developments are: the enhancement of the harbour area [citation needed]; the implementation of a car and foot passenger ferry service to Swansea - a Welsh city which is only twenty one miles away across the Bristol Channel[3]; the re-development of the derelict bus station site based on plans developed by Terence O'Rourke [4]; and the creation of better youth support and recreation facilities at Larkstone Brimland area on the Eastern side of the harbour area[citation needed].

The Town Council - working with GOSW, SWRDA and NDDC, supported by the Alliance and Transform - has proposed the development of the council offices into a community training resource in the town centre: 'The OneStop@Ilfracombe'.[5]

In 2006 major leisure industry developments by John Fowler, a local holiday camp operator are expected to help shift the local economy back to tourism. This combined with local investment by patrons such as Damien Hirst (who with his partner Mia recently funded a restaurant owned by Simon Brown, No 11 the Quay, on the Harbour Quay Road) and the introduction of high quality accommodation should make Ilfracombe a much more attractive proposition for food lovers and tourists.

Culture

Karen from Campscott Farm selling fresh produce at the bi-weekly Ilfracombe farmers market organised by Trans-send ltd [1]

Each year, the residents and school children of Ilfracombe celebrate their heritage by taking part in many activities. These include six carnivals - a 16th century May Day walking celebration; a Victorian week celebrating the time of the town's greatest prosperity; a large street carnival procession during August, organised by the Saint John's Ambulance service; the Lighting of the Lights held during November; and at Christmas, a Christingle.

As pictured, a farmers market is held regularly in The Lantern community centre on the High Street. By the Landmark Theatre there is a small but beautiful museum, housed in the buildings of the laundry of the former Ilfracombe Hotel. For those of literary intent there is an Ilfracombe authors / writers group.

Music

The Aerial studio [8], situated near Mullacott on the approach toward Ilfracombe, provides recording facilities and practice rooms for local bands. The marching band Blazing Sounds (one of several in the town), came third at the year 2000 World Marching band championships in Calgary, Canada and 2nd the following year in Germany.

Locals enjoying 'Victorian Week' at the farmers market whilst dressed in traditional Victorian attire

Performing arts

Ilfracombe College has its own theatre group (The Studio Theatre), who perform regularly throughout the year in The Landmark Theatre and other venues including the college.

Throughout the 1990s, the town was also host to the now defunct National Youth Arts Festival.

Sport

Ilfracombe Town Football Club near Ilfracombe College, currently compete in Division One of the Western Football League.

Other sports teams in the town include Hash Harriers running club and many skittles and darts teams operated by the numerous licensed premises in the town.

For many years, whilst his father was the vicar of St Philip & St James Church, Ilfracombe was home to the World and Olympic Champion triple jump athlete Jonathan Edwards. Jason Twist, twice World Champion at 7-ball pool still lives in the town.

Fitness facilities for the general population are somewhat lacking, there are for example, no gym facilities. However, the largely rural and hilly nature of the local terrain provide plenty of opportunities to exercise freely. A tennis club is held at Bicclescombe Park which contains several tennis courts, bookable for a small fee by both tourists and locals.

Ilfracombe Golf Club [9] (located just beyond Hele Bay) was founded in 1892. Other facilities include: a rugby ground, cricket pitch and swimming pool in the suburb of Chambercombe. There is also a yacht club [10], a flat green bowling club and a sub-aqua club.

Despite the hilly terrain, Ilfracombe is at one end of the Trans-Devon cycle trail, Sustrans route 57, which starts from the Pier (clock-in station at the Pier tavern) and ends in Plymouth. There is another coastal trail suitable for cycling which starts at the pier and heads east to Minehead (defined as 'arduous').

The South West coastal footpath connecting Minehead in Somerset to Dorset, via Land's End, passes through the town from Hele Bay to Lee Bay via Ilfracombe Harbour.

Other

During the early 1990s, the team of the popular English reality TV show Challenge Anneka relocated the Ilfracombe Community Centre from its former base near Ilfracombe Library, to 'Burnside' in the heart of the Slade Valley estate for use as a community owned centre.

Notable incidents

The Montebello Hotel Fire

File:Montebello fire.jpg
The Montebello Hotel ablaze (from behind) - 'For Sale'!
File:217135047 14a4e492e8 b.jpg
The morning after, no longer for sale

A little before 19:00 BST, on Wednesday the 8th of August 2006, a fire broke out at the derelict Montebello Hotel in Fore Street, Ilfracombe. Twenty fire engines were required to put out the blaze including a number rushed to the scene from Woolacombe, Barnstaple and the bordering county of Somerset. Specialist equipment was brought in from as far afield as Exeter, and according to the local radio news, 85 fire fighters were involved.

The fire spread to three neighbouring properties and showered combustion debris over a wide area. The six-storey hotel was completely gutted, with only the front wall, chimney stacks and remains of the lift shaft frame surviving the blaze, which was still being damped-down the following day. Fore Street will be closed for some period due to the difficulties of demolition.[6]

Unfortunately, the Victorian building will have to be demolished, as the fire has left it structurally unsound. This has caused additional headaches for the emergency services as curious members of the public have been ignoring safety barriers in an attempt to see the remains more clearly.[7]

An investigation into the cause of the blaze is in progress, and as to whether connections can be made to the previous fires at the Cliffe Hydro Hotel, the Amusement arcade on Wilder Road, and the historic fires at the Castle, the Mount and the original Candar.

Twin towns

Ilfracombe is twinned with:

References

  1. ^ Hoskins W.G (1954). Devon. Phillimore & Co Ltd. ISBN 1860772706.
  2. ^ Ilfracombe Museum at http://www.devonmuseums.net/
  3. ^ Plans for new car ferry serviceBBC News
  4. ^ O'Rourke T. (2006), Town Centre Study Report:Key sites pp. 5-6
  5. ^ The town council's project proposal for OneStop@Ilfracombe
  6. ^ Initial report of the fire from BBC News
  7. ^ BBC News - Report update - 12 Aug 2006