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Lutz Huelle
Born1966
Remscheid, Germany
NationalityGerman
EducationCentral Saint Martins
LabelLutz Huelle
AwardsANDAM Fashion Award (2000, 2002)
Websitelutzhuelle.com

Lutz Huelle (born 1966 in Remscheid, Germany) is a German fashion designer based in Paris. Noted for his deconstructive approach and hybrid silhouettes, Huelle co-founded his label in 2000 and has headed the Fashion, Jewellery & Accessory Design department at Haute école d'art et de design Genève since 2021.

Early life and education

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Huelle grew up near Cologne and studied fashion at Central Saint Martins in London. After graduating, he moved to Paris and joined Maison Martin Margiela, working several years as Martin Margiela’s assistant and contributing to the Artisanal and ready-to-wear collections.[1]

He is often seen as a spiritual successor to Margiela—Madame Figaro called him “the most spiritual son of Martin”—though Huelle’s work, praised for its emotional clarity and intimacy, diverges from Margiela’s theatricality.[2][3]

Career

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In 2000, Huelle launched his eponymous label in Paris with David Ballu. He is a two-time recipient of the ANDAM Fashion Award, winning in 2000 and again in 2002.[4]

From 2018 to 2021, he served as Creative Director at Jesús del Pozo, expanding the house’s daywear offerings and translating its couture heritage into modern, wearable garments—praised for preserving the brand’s essence while introducing accessibility.[5]

In 2022, he was invited to join AZ Factory, the joint venture of Designer Alber Elbaz and Richemont, creating capsule collections recognized for their joyful hybridity, wearability, and alignment with Alber Elbaz’s ethos.[6]

Academic role

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Since September 2021, Huelle has led the Department of Fashion, Jewellery & Accessory Design at Haute école d'art et de design Genève, the Geneva University of Art and Design.[7] Jean‑Pierre Greff, then-director of the school, praised Huelle’s arrival as giving “an impulse that will be decisive for the next years,” highlighting his role in ensuring the department remains at the top of international fashion education.[8]

Collaborations and exhibitions

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Huelle remains close with artist Alexandra Bircken and photographer Wolfgang Tillmans, friends since meeting in their teens in Germany. He is featured in several of Tillmans's most iconic photographs, including the cover of Tillmans’s first monograph, Wolfgang Tillmans (1995), published by Taschen.[9]

Their creative dialogue was further explored in the 2022–23 exhibition *La pensée corps* at Fondation Pernod Ricard, which focused on themes of embodiment, transformation, and the politics of the body.[10]

Design philosophy

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Described as a “fashion Dadaist,” Huelle blends casual and formal, masculine and feminine, with intuitive design and sustainability, infusing it with warmth and clarity.[11]

Critical reception

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Huelle’s collections have earned acclaim from leading fashion critics:

  • Tim Blanks called his Spring/Summer 2016 collection “a subtle masterwork of day-to-night dressing,” and later noted his “irresistible ongoing dialogue between plain and fancy.”[12][13]
  • Cathy Horyn described his Spring/Summer 2025 show as “alive to chance and unspoiled,” reflecting an effortless tension between tradition and play.[14]
  • Tiziana Cardini praised his Spring/Summer 2025 designs as “remarkable creativity... with such levity, it feels almost ridiculously effortless.”[15]
  • Nicole Phelps noted his Fall/Winter 2024 collection for its balance of “real clothes” and fashion-forward sensibility.[11]

Awards

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References

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  1. ^ "Lutz Huelle ou la vie composite", Le Vif Weekend, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  2. ^ "Le mystère Margiela", Madame Figaro, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  3. ^ "Lutz Huelle RTW Fall 2018", Vogue Runway, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  4. ^ "ANDAM", noting winners including Lutz Huelle in 2000 and 2002; retrieved 2025-06-28.
  5. ^ "Lutz Huelle sustituye a Josep Font en Delpozo", RTVE, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  6. ^ "Lutz Huelle is AZ Factory’s newest Amigo", Vogue Business, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  7. ^ "Lutz Huelle – HEAD faculty profile", retrieved 2025-06-28.
  8. ^ "Mot du Directeur", HEAD – Genève fashion show 2022, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  9. ^ "Wolfgang Tillmans – 1995 monograph", Taschen, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  10. ^ La pensée corps, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  11. ^ a b "Lutz Huelle RTW Fall 2024", Vogue, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  12. ^ "Lutz Huelle is the Unsung King of the Fashion Hybrid", Business of Fashion, 26 October 2015.
  13. ^ "At Lutz Huelle, Forever Clothes", Business of Fashion, 5 March 2020.
  14. ^ "Huelle’s work is … alive to chance and unspoiled", The Cut, retrieved 2025-06-28.
  15. ^ "Huelle wears his remarkable creativity…", Vogue Runway, retrieved 2025-06-28.
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References

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