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Erice

Coordinates: 38°2′13″N 12°35′11″E / 38.03694°N 12.58639°E / 38.03694; 12.58639
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Erice
Èrici (Sicilian)
Città di Erice
Erice and the Castle of Venus, with Trapani and the Tyrrhenian coast beyond.
Erice and the Castle of Venus, with Trapani and the Tyrrhenian coast beyond.
Location of Erice
Map
Erice is located in Italy
Erice
Erice
Location of Erice in Italy
Erice is located in Sicily
Erice
Erice
Erice (Sicily)
Coordinates: 38°2′13″N 12°35′11″E / 38.03694°N 12.58639°E / 38.03694; 12.58639
CountryItaly
RegionSicily
ProvinceTrapani (TP)
FrazioniBallata, Casa Santa, Crocefissello, Napola, Pizzolungo, Rigaletta, San Cusumano, Torretta
Government
 • MayorDaniela Toscano
Area
 • Total
47 km2 (18 sq mi)
Elevation
751 m (2,464 ft)
Population
 (31 December 2023)[2]
 • Total
26,441
 • Density560/km2 (1,500/sq mi)
DemonymEricini
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code
91016
Dialing code0923
Patron saintMaria Santissima di Custonaci
Saint dayLast Wednesday of August
WebsiteOfficial website

Erice (Italian: [ˈɛːritʃe]; Sicilian: Èrici [ˈɛːɾɪʃɪ]) is a comune (municipality) contiguous with the provincial capital Trapani, in western Sicily. Its historic core occupies the site of the ancient city of Eryx, one of the most significant archaeological and religious centres in pre-Roman western Sicily.[3][4]

Located on the summit of Monte Erice, the city developed around a site that later became a prominent religious and military stronghold for the Carthaginians and Romans. It retains its medieval layout and architecture, with few modern interventions, and occupies a natural vantage point that historically offered strategic control over the Strait of Sicily and the western coastline.[5]

The municipality includes both the hilltop centre and a number of modern lower districts, some of which extend to the Tyrrhenian coast, as well as small agricultural frazioni (hamlets) on the surrounding foothills.

Erice is a member of I Borghi più belli d'Italia (The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy), an association that recognises towns of notable historical and architectural interest.[6] It has at times been mentioned in the local media as a potential candidate for UNESCO World Heritage Site status.[7][8]

History

[edit]

Erice held significant strategic and religious importance across millennia. It has been called: Irka (used by the Sicani and Elymians), Erech (by the Phoenicians and Carthaginians), Eryx (by the Greeks and Romans), Monte San Giuliano during the medieval period, and finally Erice in modern times, with the mountaintop settlement now often referred to as Erice Vetta (summit).[5]

Antiquity

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The origins of Erice remain uncertain, but the settlement likely emerged by the 10th–7th centuries BCE, developing both as a sanctuary site of indigenous worship and as a strategically fortified location.[5] Historical sources date the site to at least the 6th or 5th century BCE.[3] Under the Elymians, Phoenicians, and Carthaginians, Erice developed as a sanctuary-fortress with a settlement protected by fortifications now known as the Elymian-Punic Walls.[5]

The ancient city’s population was fluid and largely shaped by its religious role. There is evidence that the settlement was a centre of trade, defence, hospitality and transport. Following the Roman conquest of Sicily, Erice was classified as a civitas censoria, the name for a city formally annexed into Roman territory.[5] The city was also a religious centre and Thucydides records Athenian ambassadors being shown a sanctuary of the goddess.[3]

Now known as the Temple of Venus Erycina, the sanctury had fallen into decline due to a reduction in pilgrimage and financial support during the first century CE. A delegation from Segesta appealed to Emperor Tiberius for funds from the Roman treasury to assist with its restoration. The fact that the request came from Segesta suggests that Erice, by this time, lacked the civic structure or political autonomy to advocate on its own behalf, functioning primarily as a religious site rather than a populated polis with institutions or local governance.[5]

Medieval Period

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The modern settlement of Erice began in the Norman period, following centuries of silence in historical sources. Revived by the Norman kingdom’s African policy, the city regained strategic importance, and the mountain once again served as a defensive stronghold overlooking the Strait of Sicily. During the medieval period, the city became known as Monte San Giuliano.[5]

The 12th-century traveller Ibn Giubayr described the site as having abundant springs, cultivated fields and vineyards on the mountain, and a fortress accessible by a bridge. Monte San Giuliano held an intermediate status in the medieval territorial hierarchy, positioned between a civitas and a casale, and was classified as a terra (land).[5]

During this period, the city began to take on its present-day character and layout. The Norman fortress, now called the Castle of Venus, was built to strengthen Erice’s strategic position. Several important buildings also date from this time, including the Chiesa Matrice (Mother Church) and the Palazzo Municipale (formerly the Palazzo Giuratorio), which replaced the earlier town hall at the Balio Towers—a structure that had also served as a fortified gateway to the castle. The city developed around three main hubs, connected by the “Royal Road” (now Via Albertina degli Abati) and the “Great Road” (now Via Vittorio Emanuele II). Wealthy and noble families expanded their estates by combining neighbouring properties.[5]

Additional palaces constructed during or after the late medieval period include:

  • Palazzo Ventimiglia (later the Convent of San Francesco), Via San Francesco, 14th century
  • Palazzo Platamone, Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 14th–19th century
  • Palazzo Chiaramonte (later the Convent of San Domenico), Via Vittorio Emanuele II, 14th century

As Christianity spread, former pagan sites were turned into churches and convents. Churches built during this time include the Church of San Martino (Chiesa San Martino) on Via Pietro Salerno, the Church of San Giuliano (Chiesa di San Giuliano) on Via Roma, and the Church of San Giovanni Battista (Chiesa San Giovanni) on Via San Giovanni. In 1494, under orders from Ferdinand the Catholic, the city expelled its large Jewish community.[5]

As Erice entered the early modern period, its population grew from 7,657 in 1584 to around 12,000 by the late 1600s. At its height, the city controlled much of the surrounding countryside in what is now the province of Trapani. This was Erice’s most prosperous period, and many of the palaces and churches built at the time still stand today. The streets were paved with decorative patterns using small stones—a feature that remains a distinctive part of Erice today.[5]

Modern Period

[edit]

Following a peak of civic influence in the 18th century, Erice entered a prolonged period of demographic and institutional decline. In the late 18th century, Bourbon land reforms redistributed public lands through emphyteusis, encouraging rural settlement and the formation of new villages such as Custonaci and San Vito Lo Capo. As administrative functions shifted to larger centres like Trapani, many noble families and residents relocated, leaving the hilltop town increasingly depopulated and economically peripheral.[5]

In the 19th century, new efforts to preserve and beautify the historic town emerged. The Balio Gardens (Giardino del Balio) were created in 1872 by Count Agostino Sieri Pepoli, who leased the Balio Towers (Torri del Balio) and surrounding grazing land from the city. In return, he restored the towers and developed a public garden. He also built the Pepoli Turret (Torretta Pepoli), a small neo-Gothic building set on a rocky outcrop to the east of the gardens.[5]

In 1934, the town of Monte San Giuliano was renamed Erice. Just five years later, in 1939, the Second World War began. A Luftwaffe Operations Centre (associated with Zerstörergeschwader 26 and Jagdgeschwader 27 which operated out of the nearby Trapani–Milo Airport was located on the slopes of Monte Erice from early 1943 until they were forced by Allied air raids to relocate.[9] Following the Allied invasion of Sicily in 1943 troops of the 2nd Battalion of the 505th Infantry Regiment Seventh Army under the command of Major Mark Alexander began on 22 July 1943 to climb up the side of Monte Erice in order to secure the town and its commanding position overlooking the surrounding countryside. As they did so they came under artillery fire from Italian forces stationed on the ramparts with one soldier being killed and another wounded. Realising that the safest position was directly under the walls of town, the lead troops took shelter there. Rather than waiting on artillery support to arrive the decision was then made for F Company to attack. However, before the troops had come close enough to engage them the Italian forces signalled their surrender.[9]

Erice emerged from the post-war period with much of its medieval character remarkably intact. In more recent decades, efforts to preserve and restore this heritage began in earnest, with restoration of the ancient city walls starting in the 1970s and continuing with a €2 million consolidation project approved in 2023 under Italy’s PNRR programme. The Balio Gardens were restored between 2019 and 2024, and additional works—such as the renewal of the San Nicola sports field and Porta Spada gymnasium—have improved recreational infrastructure with a combined investment of over €3 million.[10][11][12]

Recent studies have called for more inclusive and sustainable heritage strategies to address long-term challenges such as depopulation, inaccessibility, and seasonal tourism pressures. Proposals include the creation of accessible walking routes, a wellbeing park near the ancient walls, and improved visitor resources such as digital guides and interpretive signage. These efforts aim to balance conservation priorities with broader goals of health, community engagement, and inclusive cultural access.[13]

Geography

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The geography of Erice encompasses its hilltop historic centre, a range of modern districts, transport infrastructure linking it to regional hubs, and a varied landscape shaped by elevation, climate, and land use.

Location and setting

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Erice is located approximately 100 kilometres (62 miles) from the regional capital, Palermo. Its historic centre sits at an elevation of about 750 metres (2,460 ft) atop Monte Erice, while the wider comune extends to the coastline, encompassing a varied topography of mountainous, hilly, and coastal terrain.

An infographic showing the different districts that make up the comune of Erice, Sicily

Districts and Urban Structure

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The comune comprises 12 officially recognised frazioni (hamlets or districts): Adragna, Baglio Rizzo, Ballata, Casa Santa, Crocefissello, Lenzi, Napola, Pizzolungo, Rigaletta, San Cusumano, Specchia, and Torretta.[14] Historically, the municipal territory also included neighbouring towns such as Valderice and San Vito Lo Capo, but its present boundaries were finalised in 1955.

Until the mid-20th century, Erice’s territory was primarily rural, with an economy based on agriculture, grazing, and scattered farm settlements. From the 1950s onward, rapid and largely unregulated urban expansion reshaped the lower districts. Casa Santa emerged as the municipality’s administrative and commercial hub, while the historic centre transitioned into a centre for tourism.[5]

Infrastructure and Accessibility

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Erice is accessible by road from Trapani, connected via SP31 and SP3. The A29 motorway provides onward links to Palermo to the east.

Air travel is served by two nearby airports: Vincenzo Florio Airport (Trapani–Birgi), located about 29 km (18 mi) south of Erice, and Falcone–Borsellino Airport (Palermo), approximately 90 km (56 mi) away.[15][16] A new railway station at Trapani-Birgi Airport, part of a broader €13 billion in Sicilian rail infrastructure funded by Italy's National Recovery and Resilience Plan, will connect the airport to Trapani and Palermo via the restored and electrified Palermo–Trapani line.[17]

Bus transport between Erice and Trapani is fully integrated, with metropolitan routes providing continuous service across both municipalities. These services include connections to Trapani-Birgi Airport and Palermo.[18]

The redevelopment of Trapani’s cruise terminal and island ferry facilities—closely linked to the tourism economy in Erice's historic centre—provides access for passengers arriving via the Aegadian Islands and Mediterranean cruise routes.[19][20][21]

A cable car (funivia) runs a regular service that connects the lower district of Casa Santa to the historic centre.[22] While this has improved vertical mobility, broader accessibility challenges persist in Erice’s historic centre. Steep gradients, narrow streets, and uneven paving limit access for people with disabilities, and recent efforts—such as the limited introduction of electric vehicles—reflect the complex balance between conservation priorities and inclusive design.[13]

Key public facilities that serve both Erice and Trapani are located in the lower district of Casa Santa. These include the Sant’Antonio Abate Hospital, the Stadio Polisportivo Provinciale, and the Polo Territoriale Universitario di Trapani, a satellite campus of the University of Palermo.[23][24] Erice’s 1 km wide sandy beach, Spiaggia di San Giuliano, features seasonal beach clubs, a dedicated Lido Smile, which provides accessible bathing services for people with disabilities, and a cycling path, which forms part of a roughly 3 km coastal route, linking it westward to Trapani’s Dante Alighieri beach.[25][26]

The medieval structure of the historic centre—characterised by narrow lanes, irregular blocks, and the absence of a central piazza—is described in greater detail in the History section.

Topography, Climate and Land Use

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Erice experiences a Mediterranean climate, with heat moderated by its elevation.[27] Summers are warm and dry, while winters are cool and wetter. The hilltop location of Erice results in more frequent fog and lower average temperatures than the coastal areas, contributing to a microclimate distinct from nearby Trapani.

The hillsides around the comune support viticulture under the official Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) designation Erice DOC, established in 2004, which allows the cultivation of both native varieties such as Nero d’Avola and Grillo, and international ones like Syrah and Chardonnay.[28] The Erice area is noted for its production of high-quality extra virgin olive oil, primarily from the Nocellara del Belice and Cerasuola cultivars, which are well-adapted to the region's arid summer conditions.[29] These traditional crops form the basis of a rural economy closely linked to Erice’s microclimatic diversity, which also supports limited cultivation of almonds and figs on the lower slopes.

Much of the area around the historic centre is wooded with Mediterranean species such as Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), holm oak (Quercus ilex), and cypress, interspersed with underbrush of myrtle, heather, and broom. Two particularly notable green spaces include the Sacro Bosco—a semi-natural sacred grove with mythological and monastic associations—and the Bosco dei Runzi, a forested area on the northeastern slope known for its biodiversity and shaded walking trails.[30]

Landmarks

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Key sites in Erice’s historic centre include:

  • Elymian-Punic Walls: Ancient fortifications that once protected Eryx. They are considered among the most significant surviving examples of early Mediterranean defensive architecture, incorporating Elymian, Punic, and medieval construction phases.[4]
  • Castle of Venus: A Norman-era fortress built on the site of an ancient sanctuary dedicated to Venus Erycina, a Roman adaptation of the Greek goddess Aphrodite. The area has been associated with religious activity since antiquity and features archaeological remains from Elymian, Roman, and medieval periods.[31]
  • Chiesa Matrice: The main church of Erice built in the 14th century during the reign of King Frederick III. There are many other churches, monasteries, and oratories in the city, include the Parish Churches of Saint Julian (Chiesa di San Giuliano) and Saint John the Baptist (Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista).[5]
  • Cordici Museum (Polo Museale “A. Cordici”): A civic museum housed in a former Franciscan convent, founded in 1876 to conserve artworks and archaeological finds from suppressed religious institutions and local collections. Its holdings include Elymian and Roman artifacts, sacred art, ethnographic objects, and Garibaldian-era weapons. The museum also features a dedicated section for contemporary art, showcasing works from the La Salerniana collection, which includes pieces by prominent Italian artists from the latter half of the 20th century.[32]
  • Balio Towers (Torri del Balio): A group of medieval towers that served both defensive and administrative functions following the Norman conquest of southern Italy. They were the residence of the Bajulo, a royal official responsible for civil justice and taxation, and formed a gateway to the Castle of Venus.[5]
  • Pepoli Turret (Torretta Pepoli): A neo-Gothic retreat built between 1872 and 1880 by Count Agostino Pepoli as a place for study and cultural gatherings. Situated on a rocky outcrop east of the Balio Gardens, it blends medieval, Moorish, and Liberty architectural elements. Restored in 2014, it now serves as a multimedia museum and the “Observatory of Peace and Lighthouse of the Mediterranean”.[33]
  • Balio Gardens: Public gardens created in the 19th century by Count Agostino Pepoli on former grazing land adjacent to the Balio Towers. The gardens feature Mediterranean and exotic plantings, fountains, monuments, and viewpoints over Trapani and the surrounding coastline.

Culture

[edit]

Erice holds a number of annual events and traditions, including religious processions, cultural festivals, and sporting competitions, many of which are associated with the town’s historical and seasonal calendar.

Religious Traditions

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  • Misteri di Erice – Held annually on Good Friday, this solemn procession re-enacts the Passion of Christ through a series of sculptural tableaux known as the Misteri that are carried through the streets of Erice by members of local guilds in traditional costume. The procession begins at the Church of San Giuliano, where the groups of sculptures are displayed before the ritual begins.[34]
  • Festa di Maria Santissima di Custonaci – Celebrated annually in late August, this festival honours Erice's patron saint, Maria Santissima di Custonaci. A highlight of the festivities is the "Consegna delle Chiavi d'Oro" (Presentation of the Golden Keys), during which the mayor symbolically entrusts the city's keys to the Madonna, followed by a procession through the historic centre involving local officials and representatives from neighbouring municipalities.[35]
  • EricèNatale – During the winter holiday season, the town hosts a Christmas market, nativity displays, concerts, and lights the town with Christmas decorations and pine trees. This is followed at New Year with live performances in Piazza della Loggia and fireworks at midnight.[36][37]

Science and Higher Education

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Arts, Music, and Food Festivals

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  • Ericestate – Erice’s official summer cultural programme, held annually between June and September. Organised by the Comune di Erice, it features a broad calendar of events including concerts, theatre performances, art exhibitions, children’s activities, and food-and-wine initiatives. Events are staged across various venues in both the historic centre and the modern districts, with the aim of promoting cultural participation and supporting tourism in the region.[40]

Sporting Events

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  • Erice Climb – An annual hillclimb car race that ascends the winding roads from Valderice to Erice. The event is part of the Italian hillclimb racing calendar and attracts motorsport enthusiasts from across the country.[41]
  • Erice Trail – A springtime trail running event that passes through parts of Santa Casa, Valderice, and the historic centre of Erice. The route showcases the natural and historical landscapes of the mountain.[42]

For additional cultural and nature walks on Monte Erice, including forest and heritage trails marked by the CAI, see Monte Erice.

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References

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  2. ^ "Popolazione Residente al 1° Gennaio 2018". Italian National Institute of Statistics. Retrieved 16 March 2019.
  3. ^ a b c Lietz, Beatrice (2022). "Erice. Fonti storiche e archeologiche". In Ampolo, Carmine (ed.). La città e le città della Sicilia antica: atti delle ottave giornate internazionali di studi sull’area elima e la Sicilia occidentale nel contesto mediterraneo (Pisa, 18–21 December 2012) (in Italian). Quasar. ISBN 978-88-5491-263-2. hal-03908782.
  4. ^ a b De Vincenzo, Salvatore (2015). "The fortification wall of Eryx: A new definition of the settlement's construction phases and topographic development in light of recent excavations." Analysis Archaeologica, vol. 1, pp. 103–116. link
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p Tusa, Matteo (2017). Erice: Planning for Life. Erice: Self-published. ISBN 9788892667327.
  6. ^ "Erice". I Borghi più belli d’Italia (in Italian). Retrieved 21 May 2025.
  7. ^ "La splendida città di Erice (TP) continua a bussare alla porta dell'Unesco". Guidasicilia (in Italian). 10 September 2004. Retrieved 21 May 2025.
  8. ^ "Erice si candida a diventare patrimonio dell'Umanità". Agoravox (in Italian). 8 November 2010. Retrieved 21 May 2025.
  9. ^ a b Holland, James (2020). Sicily '43: The First Assault on Fortress Europe (Hardback). London: Bantam Press. p. 383. ISBN 978-1-7876-3293-6.
  10. ^ "Approvato in linea amministrativa il progetto dei "Lavori di restauro e consolidamento delle Mura Elimo-Puniche della Città di Erice"". Comune di Erice (in Italian). 19 June 2023. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
  11. ^ "Erice, lo storico Giardino del Balio torna al suo antico splendore". Giornale di Sicilia (in Italian). 18 November 2023.
  12. ^ "Campo San Nicola e palestra Porta Spada, al via i lavori delle opere pubbliche finanziate con fondi PNRR (€1.450.000,00 e €1.714.524,85)". Comune di Erice (in Italian). 15 November 2023. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
  13. ^ a b Abbate, Giuseppe; Germanà, Maria Luisa; Savarese, Raffaele; Trapani, Ferdinando (2022). "From Conservation to Revitalization. Ambiguous and Critical Conditions in the Heritage Conservation Experiences of Erice". Conservation of Architectural Heritage. Springer. pp. 239–258.
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  20. ^ "Trapani, nuova sala per la Stazione Marittima: omaggio al comandante Bosco". Itaca Notizie. Itaca Notizie. 6 May 2025. Retrieved 22 May 2025.
  21. ^ "Trapani's UNESCO bid underlines burgeoning tourist attractions of secret Western Sicily". The Italian Insider. 19 December 2023. Retrieved 22 May 2025.
  22. ^ "Funivia Erice". Funivia Erice. Funivia Erice. Retrieved 21 May 2025.
  23. ^ "Ospedale Sant'Antonio Abate". ASP Trapani.
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  29. ^ "Olio Extravergine di Oliva della Sicilia Occidentale". Slow Food Italia (in Italian). Retrieved 22 May 2025.
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  36. ^ "Erice saluta il nuovo anno: festa per il Capodanno nel borgo dei presepi". Prima Pagina Trapani (in Italian). 2 January 2025. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
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  38. ^ "Ettore Majorana Foundation and Centre for Scientific Culture". Centro Majorana. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
  39. ^ "International School of Molecular and Physical Gastronomy". Ettore Majorana Foundation and Centre for Scientific Culture. Retrieved 28 May 2025.
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  42. ^ "Erice Trail 2025". International Trail Running Association. Retrieved 23 May 2025.
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